Well-known as the most difficult, most northern seven-thousander on earth. Situated on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China, on the highest range of the Tien-Shan, the Kokshaal-Too range. This massif peak lies in-between dozens of peaks of 5000m or more, peaks Nehru (6742 m), Vazha Pshavela (6918 m) and Pobeda Vostochnaya (6762 m); experienced climbers will be chancelled to climb these summits in one trip… or a combination with the 15 km further off Peak Khan-Tengri.
| Day 1-3: | Trip starts in Bishkek (or Almaty), transportation to the base-camp in Mayda-Adyr. |
| Day 4: | From Mayda-Adir to the northern ridge. |
| Day 5 | Start with the classical route along the northern ridge. Traverse Zvezdochka Glacier (4400m), about 10 km to the foothill of the slope, first camp. |
| Day 6 | Ascent along the slope towards Pass Dikiy (5200m), Camp 2 on or before the pass. |
| Day 7: | Ascent to 5800m, along the edge. Camp 3. |
| Day 8: | Ascent to next camp 4, on 6200 m or 6400 m (rocks and snow) along the edge. |
| Day 9: | Descend to Camp 1 for acclimatization & preparations. |
| Day 10: | Down the Zvezdochka Glacier to Inylchek Base Camp. |
| Day 11-13: | Acclimatization. Preparation for the ascent, pack all necessary equipment. |
| Day 14-15: | Ascent to Camp 4 (see day 8). |
| Day 16: | Ascent to Vazha Pshavela/West Pobeda (6918 m), traverse to the left to the rocky ridge. Climb along it to Camp 5 at 6800-6900 m. |
| Day 17 | Climb along the rocky ridge to 7200 m, camp 6. |
| Day 18 | The day of the Ascent of Peak Pobeda, after reaching the summit descend to Camp 6. Recommendation for this day is to hang up fixed security climbing ropes on the most dangerous places, to make a more secure descend possible and carefully go down. |
| Day 19-20: | Descend to Camp 3 and next day, descend to Inylchek Base Camp |
| Day 21-22: | 2 spare days in case of extreme bad weather |
| Day 23-25: | Helicopter flight to Mayda Adyr, onward transport to Karakol and Bishkek/Almaty. |
Only high-class experienced climbers, with good health and good ice-rock techniques can climb Peak Pobeda (‘Victory’).
Scheme of track:
Total 14 days are necessary for the ascent, but in case of foul weather (snow, strong winds and avalanches), more time is needed. In total, our trip is 25 days, including preparation & rest days.
Season: July-August
